Off-Topic » Patek Philippe Aquanaut 'Luce' Ref. 5261R-001

Hidden Gem: Patek Philippe Aquanaut 'Luce' Ref. 5261R-001 Over the past decade, Swiss watchmakers appear to have taken a leaf or two out of tech companies' books. In addition to becoming more complex, the diameter of their new products seems to be getting larger almost every year. When it comes to watches, the more traditional collector will spend more time in the antique market to sort this out for themselves. Things got even more real earlier this year when Patek Philippe took a step back and launched a watch that can be fully enjoyed by both men who prefer smaller watches or women who prefer larger watches because of its modest size. This watch is, of course, the new Aquanaut Annual Calendar. 5261R-001. This watch belongs to the "Luce" series, but is closer to the regular Aquanaut series.

The first Aquanaut with an annual calendar
In addition to its diameter of 39.9 mm, the Ref. 5261R is also the first Aquanaut to be equipped with an annual calendar, making it the most complex Aquanaut ever (excluding the Advanced Research Ref. 5650G). The 18-karat rose gold case with a blue-grey dial and matching rubber strap ensures that the watch looks both inside and out. Historically, this has been a very successful combination for the Swiss manufacturer. In addition to imitating the case size and advanced mechanical movement of the regular Aquanaut series, the dial pattern of the Ref. 5261R is also the same as the regular Aquanaut series. It differs from the "Luce" series in that its grooves are narrower and shallower. This is a welcome addition that prevents the dial from looking cluttered since there is already a lot going on between the single viewport, 3 sub-dial counters and 12 Arabic numerals.

However, the 5261R does retain some of the hallmarks of the “Luce” series, such as the thinner butterfly clasp and strap, this time retaining deeper embossed grooves. Having said that, one can view the strap styles as a nod to strap styles used in the Aquanaut’s retro era, such as the collectible Ref. 5065. The 5261R also maintains a water resistance of 30 meters, unlike its larger sibling. Reached 120 meters. This is perhaps the only non-subjective major criticism of this watch. It's an Aquanaut after all, so it should at least come with a screw-down crown.

New moon phase design
Patek Philippe's decision to flip the movement architecture and place the moon phase at the top rather than at the bottom (which is more traditional in annual calendars) has led to more opinion-based criticism. Some call it the Cyclops because it appears on the dial half-overlapping the 12 o'clock numeral. I have to admit, it took me a while to figure this out too, but when I got to work on the piece myself, that "time" was over. The renderings used in press releases and websites do not do it justice. Once you actually get down to it, all those surprising things about the dial layout disappear, and all you see is the perfect proportions of the watch, and the perfect combination of blue with the warm tones of rose gold, a clever touch within a Patek Philippe The salon looks more like gold.

New reference number. The 5261R is certainly an unimpressive watch, to say the least, and many may be struggling to figure out what Patek Philippe’s true purpose is. This seems to be an amalgamation of many new and rather interesting decisions for the brand. The case is smaller in size and has a more yellowish gold color, and the strap is similar to the Ref.1. 5065, Patek Philippe seems to be injecting a small dose of vintage inspiration into the new Ref. 5065. 5261R. Perhaps this could be the brand's way of subtly testing the waters with something else, like relaunching other men's sports styles in gold in smaller sizes. Maybe a Nautilus? This is something many respected enthusiasts (myself included) would readily accept. This is of course a completely unknown thing, but it may become clearer with the brand's next watch release. After all, it’s been nearly two decades since Patek Philippe last used gold in a men’s sports watch, so it remains the only brand in the holy trinity to not have gold in its current collection.

One thing is for sure. This watch certainly won’t go unnoticed by male customers, nor should it. It is in great demand, is significant as the first Aquanaut Annual Calendar watch, and comes in a new, modest case size that is quite refreshing to say the least. I know that when I say this, I also speak for many other enthusiasts and collectors who long for something like this. It remains a watch that divides opinion, but because of that it finds itself in excellent company. The first examples of the Rolex Daytona, Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, and other models from Patek Philippe were controversial at first, but eventually became very collectible, and for They prove to be more than a fruitful purchase for those who can see their value from the outset. I think the Patek Philippe Ref. 5261R-001 will be no different, and we may all look back on it through a clearer lens in the future.